Photo by Jonathan Fors on Unsplash
What are milia?
Milia are small, firm white or yellowish bumps that appear on the skin, most commonly around the eyes, cheeks and forehead. Although they are often mistaken for whiteheads, milia are not a form of acne. They are harmless, non-inflammatory cysts filled with keratin, a protein naturally found in the skin, hair and nails. While they can affect people of all ages, milia are particularly common in adults with dry or dehydrated skin.
Why do they happen?
Milia form when keratin becomes trapped beneath the surface of the skin instead of shedding naturally. This can happen for several reasons. In winter, reduced humidity, cold air and central heating can slow down cell turnover, making it harder for dead skin cells to shed properly. Heavy or occlusive skincare products can also contribute, particularly around the delicate eye area where the skin is thinner. Sun damage, skin trauma and certain dermatological treatments may also increase the likelihood of milia developing.
How can I treat them?
Unlike acne, milia do not respond to spot treatments or harsh cleansing. In fact, trying to squeeze or pick them can damage the skin and increase the risk of scarring or infection. The most effective way to address milia is by encouraging gentle, consistent exfoliation. Chemical exfoliants containing ingredients such as lactic acid, glycolic acid or salicylic acid help dissolve the bonds between dead skin cells, allowing them to shed more efficiently. For sensitive areas, particularly around the eyes, it is important to choose formulas specifically designed for delicate skin.
Retinoids are another effective option for treating milia. By increasing cell turnover, they help prevent keratin from becoming trapped in the skin. Over-the-counter retinol products can be useful, although results take time and consistency. For more persistent cases, a dermatologist may prescribe a stronger retinoid or remove milia professionally using sterile tools. This should never be attempted at home.
Can I prevent milia from forming?
Prevention plays a key role in managing milia long term. Opting for lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturisers can help reduce the risk of blocked pores, especially if you are prone to milia around the eyes. Applying sunscreen daily is also essential, as sun damage can thicken the skin and interfere with normal exfoliation. Regular but gentle exfoliation, combined with adequate hydration, helps support healthy skin renewal.
It is also worth reviewing your skincare routine if milia become a recurring issue. Overly rich eye creams, excessive layering of products or infrequent exfoliation may all contribute. Simplifying your routine and choosing products suited to your skin type can make a noticeable difference over time.
While milia can be frustrating, they are a common and manageable skin concern. With the right approach and a little patience, skin texture can improve and the likelihood of new milia forming can be significantly reduced.
Our milia-management skincare routine
Dermalogica Daily Milkfoliant – a gentle exfoliator which is suitable for sensitive skin and even for use around the eyes, where milia commonly occur.
Murad Clarifying Oil Free Water Gel – a lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturiser.
CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol Serum – a budget-friendly retinol serum which enhances your skincare regime, targeting a range of skin concerns.
Medik8 Advanced Day Eye Protect SPF30 – a lightweight SPF, designed for use on the delicate eye area.
SkinCeuticals Hyaluronic Acid Intensifier Multi-Glycan – helps support skin hydration and elasticity, which can improve cell turnover and reduce the likelihood of milia forming due to dehydration or a compromised skin barrier.